Dieux's Instant Angel moisturizer is the perfect hydrating antidote for dry, sensitive skin --[Reported by Umva mag]

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As someone with dry and sensitive skin, it feels at times like I've been on a 20-year quest to find my holy grail moisturizer — the one that's rich enough to soothe, soften, and hydrate my skin yet won't trigger irritation or leave a greasy finish. Sensitive skin like mine often signifies an impaired skin barrier. Instant Angel, a moisturizer from cult-fave beauty brand Dieux, is billed as "your skin's barrier protector." But can it live up to its promises? I tested this moisturizer for a week to find out.

The Dieux Instant Angel hype can be traced back to a 2022 Instagram story posted by Hailey Bieber, in which she called the product a "life-saver." "I couldn't love this moisturizer more," she wrote. It didn't take long for the product to sell out.

Dieux specifically formulated this moisturizer for people with dehydrated skin and a compromised barrier — both of which certainly apply to me. In this Dieux Instant Angel review, I'll share my unfiltered thoughts on the formula, packaging, and, most importantly, the results after making this my night cream for a week.

Dieux Instant Angel ingredients

One of the many reasons that Dieux has become one of my go-to brands is that they only use active ingredients with supporting evidence from third-party research findings. I also love that Dieux is a vegan, cruelty-free line that only tests on humans.

The Instant Angel formula is packed with some noteworthy skin-nourishing ingredients, including:

• Glycerin: According to the American Academy of Dermatology Association, glycerin is one of the best ingredients for dry skin. Research has found it's the most effective humectant — meaning it can help draw moisture to the top layer of your skin.
• Hyaluronic acid: A 2021 study showed that products with hyaluronic acid can increase skin hydration by 134% immediately after application and improve skin smoothness, plumpness, and the visibility of wrinkles and fine lines after six weeks of daily use. Fun fact: Just a quarter-teaspoon of hyaluronic acid can hold about one and a half gallons of water.
• Caprylyl glycol: This plant-derived alcohol is considered an emollient. Emollients form a protective oily layer on the skin's surface to help keep moisture in and keep irritants and allergens out. For this reason, the National Eczema Society reports that emollients can be super beneficial for people with dry, itchy, and/or sensitive skin.
• .5% Dipalmityl hydroxyproline: One small study found that when women between the ages of 33 and 45 applied a skincare product with this particular amino acid, there was a 28% reduction in the appearance of their wrinkles within minutes and a 50% reduction after three months of daily use. However, the formulation also contained hyaluronic acid and peptides, so the benefits can't be attributed to dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline alone.

• Ceramides: These lipids, or fatty acids, comprise a good portion of the skin's outer layer — and play an important role in the barrier function. They help the skin retain moisture while also blocking out external toxins. Studies show that skincare products with ceramides can minimize moisture loss from the skin, increase skin hydration, and restore skin barrier function. Experts say ceramides are especially effective when paired with hyaluronic acid and glycerin, both of which are in the Instant Angel formula.
• Phytosterols: These natural compounds can have an anti-inflammatory effect, making them particularly beneficial for those with acne, psoriasis, and eczema.
• Linoleic acid: Research has shown that this fatty acid, which can be found in nuts, seeds, and vegetable oils, can help treat dry, itchy, eczema-prone skin.
• 2% Meadowestolide: This lipid is derived from meadowfoam seed oil, which studies have found acts as an emollient on your skin, locking in moisture.

As part of its 3% moisture complex, Instant Angel contains urea. On the one hand, research shows it helps treat dry skin due to its ability to attract and absorb water. On the other hand, according to the National Eczema Foundation, it can cause irritation in some people with atopic dermatitis (eczema). This is far more likely to happen when there's a higher urea concentration, though, and the Instant Angel formula contains a very small amount.

One thing the formula doesn't have? Fragrances. That's become a must for me because fragrances are known irritants that can cause stinging, swelling, itching, and other symptoms of an allergic reaction — particularly in people with sensitive skin like myself.

Finally, it's worth noting that although Instant Angel is tested as non-comedogenic, richer products like this may not be suitable if you have acne. Luckily, Dieux makes a lightweight gel-cream moisturizer, Air Angel, that was tested by a third-party lab to cause no new breakouts in people with acne- and breakout-prone skin.

How to use Dieux Instant Angel

For my Dieux Instant Angel review, I used this product every night for a full week. I prefer to use a daily moisturizer with sunscreen, but Instant Angel seemed like the perfect swap for my current night cream. I layered it on after cleansing and applying my go-to brightening serum. If you use Instant Angel during the day, Dieux advises always following with SPF.

When I first pulled out the metal squeeze key, I was perplexed about its purpose. As it turns out, Dieux includes this handy little addition for free to help you scrape every last drop out of the tube. I hate nothing more than wasted products, so I appreciated this thoughtful feature.

Dieux advises gently massaging a quarter-sized amount of product onto your face and neck.

Dieux Instant Angel review

To be honest, when I first started applying a quarter-sized amount of Instant Angel onto my skin, it seemed like an excessive amount of product. However, after smoothing it down my neck and letting it sit on my skin for around 10 minutes, I happily observed that it absorbed fairly quickly. The product feels pretty thick when you first squirt it out of the tube, but once you rub it in, it has a silky feel — almost like a makeup primer.

I'll admit I usually prefer a dewy, glowy finish and I found that this one dried pretty matte. That said, there is an advantage to this: it makes an incredible base for makeup. If you have oily or combination skin, you may also like that this moisturizer doesn't contribute to any shine, even in the T-zone.

Typically, I have to be pretty careful about getting any skincare products near my delicate eye area, but I noticed that the Dieux Instant Angel didn't cause any issues. Maybe that's because it doesn't have any fragrances or other common irritants.

Following my first use, I noticed my skin looked slightly plumper. But the benefits definitely became more noticeable the longer I used it, so I'd advise using it daily for at least a week before making a final judgment call on whether you'll stick with it. After applying Instant Angel for a full week, my skin definitely felt softer and looked smoother, and I'd even venture to say my wrinkles, fine lines, and pores weren't as noticeable.

Dieux Instant Angel packaging

Dieux just released Instant Angel in a more compact tube that uses less aluminum. I don't tend to like moisturizers that come in a tub because it doesn't feel very sanitary to keep sticking my fingers into the formula every time I go to use it, potentially transferring bacteria. So, I was thrilled that Instant Angel comes in a tube — which, it's worth noting, is made from recyclable aluminum.

Some customers complain about the aluminum tube tearing too easily in the online product reviews. I didn't have this problem, but Dieux did post an Instagram video with instructions on how to handle the tube to prevent this damage. This entails holding the tube upright on a flat, hard surface and tapping the bottom end to push the product downward before puncturing the top. Dieux also recommends always squeezing from the top or middle of the tube.

The bottom line

Dieux Instant Angel checks several important boxes for me. It's fragrance-free and non-irritating, fast-absorbing, and rich yet non-greasy. I felt a difference in my skin even after just one application, and my skin continued to improve the more I used it. I love the no-waste, recyclable, hygienic packaging, and as an added bonus, I've found that this moisturizer layers beautifully under makeup with no pilling whatsoever.

The finish may be a bit more matte that I tend to like, but that's something I'm willing to live with — applying a few drops of face oil (I love the Kora Organics one) helps add a bit more radiance and glow back to my complexion.

Only time will tell whether or not Dieux Instant Angel can actually help repair my poor skin barrier, but for now, it's a welcome addition to my nighttime skincare routine alongside the Deliverance Serum I also reviewed and loved.

FAQs

Can the skin barrier repair itself?

If you're struggling with dryness, acne, rough patches, sensitivity, inflammation, or irritation, your skin barrier may be damaged. This can happen due to over-exfoliating, using harsh chemical-laden soaps, neglecting to use enough moisturizer, washing with overly hot water, or long-term exposure to ultra-dry air. But don't stress — with a little TLC, it's definitely possible to heal the skin barrier.

Research has found that the best way to strengthen and repair the skin barrier is to switch to a gentle, non-irritating cleanser and apply a ceramide-rich moisturizer that contains both humectant and occlusive ingredients daily.

What's the difference between humectants, emollients, and occlusives?

The best moisturizing ingredients are humectants, emollients, or occlusives. Here's what to know about their unique benefits.

Humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin are known for attracting moisture from the air as well as the skin's deeper layers and bringing it into the skin's surface.

Emollients help to fill in the cracks between your skin cells, thereby smoothing and softening the skin and supporting skin barrier function. Some examples include squalane and shea butter. Pro tip: Always apply products with emollients last in your skincare routine, as they create a protective layer to lock in moisture.

Finally, occlusives — such as petrolatum, jojoba oil, beeswax, and argan oil — work by forming a physical barrier on the skin's surface to prevent moisture loss.

There are some skincare ingredients that overlap these categories — for example, dimethicone has both emollient and occlusive characteristics.

Is there a difference between day and night moisturizers?

Daytime moisturizers and nighttime moisturizers have different goals, so they're formulated a bit differently.

Moisturizers for daytime use are typically lightweight, and aimed at brightening your skin while protecting it from sun damage. Therefore, they often contain vitamin C and SPF.

Nighttime moisturizers, meanwhile, tend to be richer and more focused on repair or combatting signs of aging. These products may contain powerful active ingredients like retinol to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and even out your skin tone, or alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids to exfoliate the skin.

If you're on a budget, rest assured that you don't necessarily need to use a different moisturizer in the morning and at night. However, if you're multitasking with one moisturizer, make sure you're following up with SPF in the morning if the product contains active ingredients like retinol, AHAs and BHAs, or niacinamide. (Even if it doesn't contain these ingredients, it's always a good idea to apply sunscreen before going outside.)

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