Yun Shen Koh possesses a quiet magnetism – a subtle rebellion hinted at by a facial piercing, a past life spent designing graphic tees, and now, the celebrated success of his bar, Backdoor Bodega. This isn’t a story of calculated ambition, but of a designer finding a new canvas in the world of cocktails.
Recently, Koh and his colleague, Thaneshkumar Sivakumar, brought the spirit of Backdoor Bodega to The Bar at the Peninsula Manila for a special evening. Four meticulously crafted drinks took center stage, each a testament to Koh’s unique approach to flavor and memory.
The “Biggie Smalls” was a revelation – an unexpected aroma reminiscent of Tiger Balm, followed by a surprisingly invigorating and medicinal taste. It was a scent and sensation that lingered, a playful paradox. Equally captivating was the “Spellbinder,” which transformed with the simple act of dipping a rice paper crisp into the glass, evoking the comforting taste of plum juice served after a Chinese meal.
Backdoor Bodega’s menu isn’t merely a list of drinks; it’s “The Backdoor Bodega Guide to Penang,” a captivating exploration of the region’s ingredients and neighborhoods. It reads like a personal journey, a glimpse into Koh’s mind as he navigates the culinary landscape of Penang.
Penang, Koh explains, offers a unique freedom. As a “rebel child” with a significant Chinese population and a history shaped by British influence, it fosters a different mindset than other parts of Malaysia, allowing Backdoor Bodega to thrive despite the country’s alcohol restrictions.
Koh deflects praise for Backdoor Bodega’s inclusion in Asia’s 50 Best Bars with a disarming laugh. He admits the initial recognition in 2022, emerging from the pandemic lockdowns, was a complete surprise. The spotlight, he acknowledges, brings expectations, but also a welcome validation.
The bar’s origin story is rooted in a T-shirt venture. The name itself – Backdoor Bodega – refers to the storeroom behind the former clothing shop. Koh’s journey to bartending was unexpected; he identifies first and foremost as a designer.
He views cocktail creation as another form of design – a process of crafting recipes, balancing flavors, and shaping aesthetics. After years in the clothing industry, the world of mixology offered a revitalizing creative outlet.
Koh’s menu delves into the nuances of local ingredients – ginger flower, bamboo, native herbs – seeking to capture the essence of Penang. He constantly challenges himself to move beyond the predictable, embracing ingredients often overlooked, like rose apple and soy sauce, the flavors “we take for granted.”
His approach isn’t about exotic imports, but about rediscovering the familiar, elevating the everyday into something extraordinary. It’s a testament to the power of observation, a designer’s eye applied to the art of the cocktail.
