A decade ago, Manila briefly held a coveted position on the global culinary map, thanks to Madrid Fusion Manila – the first Asian extension of the renowned Spanish food congress. That vibrant chapter closed in 2018, but a recent event offered a tantalizing glimpse back at the energy and innovation it sparked.
On April 20th, Spain Fusion arrived at The Westin Manila, a project spearheaded by Vocento Gastronomía, the organizers of the original Madrid Fusion. While not a direct replacement, Spain Fusion has spent the last five years traversing the globe, from Zurich to Houston, acting as a dynamic showcase for Spanish cuisine and its products.
Benjamin Lana, managing director of Vocento Gastronomía, explained the distinction: Madrid Fusion examines the broader global culinary landscape, while Spain Fusion specifically champions the artistry and ingredients of Spain. It’s a focused effort, supported by the Spanish government’s export promotion program, to share the evolving knowledge of Spanish gastronomy worldwide.
The event was a masterclass in Spanish flavors and techniques. Master of Wine Fernando Mora guided attendees through a tasting of exceptional Spanish wines, while celebrated chefs Albert Adrià and Ricardo Camarena shared their insights. A captivating olive oil demonstration by Chele Gonzalez and discussions led by Rosa Vano of Castillo de Canena and “food fetishist” Alfonso Fernandez further enriched the experience.
The culinary explorations weren’t confined to discussion; generous servings of tapas accompanied the wine tastings. One creation, a playful reimagining of the humble egg by Albert Adrià, stood out – frozen, vacuum-sublimated to a remarkable crispness, then topped with caviar and a delicate, pasteurized yolk. It was a testament to the innovative spirit at the heart of Spanish cuisine.
The possibility of bringing Madrid Fusion back to Manila remains a hope. Lana acknowledged the need for substantial local support, both from institutions and businesses, which is currently lacking. However, the recent arrival of the Michelin Guide in the Philippines offers a glimmer of optimism.
“We would like to be here again,” Lana stated, adding that smaller-scale “pocket versions” of Madrid Fusion are already being developed in other Asian cities, like the third edition planned for Tokyo in June. The success of Spain Fusion in Manila, and the response from the local culinary community, will be crucial in determining future plans.
The question of a regular Manila stop for Spain Fusion remains open. Lana emphasized the need to assess the event’s impact and gauge local interest. But his closing sentiment was clear: “If possible, I would like to be here.”
