The ‘Christmas City of the North’ is Germany’s best-kept secret — and flights are only £30

Anancient Balticport boasting more than a thousand historic buildings, Lübeck is the epitome of brick gothic, a canal city of cosy bars and imposing churches that is a great choice for a quietwinter getaway.

This 12th-century gem, about an hour’s drive northeast ofHamburg, has been shaped by centuries of history.

Once the capital of the Hanseatic League (a powerful merchant guild that controlled the North Sea back in the 1100s), today it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site with beautiful cobbled streets, a surprising amount of green spaces and some excellent places to eat and drink.

Often described as one ofGermany’s best-kept secrets, Lübeck is a good alternative to popular spots such asMunichandBerlin, with all the charm and much smaller crowds.

But it’s unlikely to stay that way for long.Ryanairis about to launch a new direct winter route from the UK, flying fromLondon Stanstedthree times a week from October 27.

Here’s everything to consider when planning your itinerary.

Where to eat (screenshot for your Notes app)

Given its proximity to the sea, medieval Lübeck is one of the few German destinations where fish trumps meat.

Historically, the city was famed for salted fish, which was a key trade commodity. Now, this legacy is seen in its local dishes: cod in mustard sauce, and herring — grilled and pickled.

You should also have a go at the famous northern dishLabskaus, a beef stew with a fried quail’s egg, salted herring and a sweet-and-sour garnish.

Lübeck is home to highly regarded red wine, known as Rotspon. The wine originates mainly fromBordeauxand is aged in cellars under the Trave River, giving it a distinctly woody taste.

But its most famous culinary treat, by far, is Marzipan. Home to Niederegger and Carstens, two of the world’s largest Marzipan companies, the city claims to be the global capital of the love-it-or-hate-it almond treat.

Try it for yourself atCafe Niedereggerbefore having a quick look inside the Niederegger Marzipan Museum.

Other cafes and restaurants not to be missed are:

• Cycle Roasters(for great coffee)
• Konvent(for homemade pastries and a tasty breakfast)
• Café Fräulein Brömse(for cakes like your grandma makes)
• Schiffergesellschaft (for a traditional dinner)
• La Havanna (for salsa dancing and Caribbean cocktails)
• Dietrich’s (for gin)
• Erbse(for vegan dishes)

• Soulmates(for ice cream)
• Sudden Death Brewery(for local craft beer)

Things to see and do

A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1987, Lübeck boasts buildings that date back more than eight centuries.

The best way to soak in the vibe of the Old Town is to get lost in the narrow streets, then book a tour to climb the stairs of the Marienkirche, the ‘mother church of brick gothic’ that is (somewhat surprisingly) one of the tallest churches in the world.

From the top, there are magnificent views of the town and its seven church spires, plus famous landmarks such as the 15-century Holsten Gate. You’ll also get a glimpse of Lübeck’s Town Hall which has stood in the market square since 1230.

Back on solid ground, check out the Kulturwerft Gollan, a renovated 19th-century shipyard that hosts concerts and festivals. This is where you’ll find Sudden Death brewery, plus a DIY design centre that runs craft workshops for beginners.

In summer, there’s nowhere better to spend an afternoon than on the banks of the River Wakenitz, swimming in the natural open-air pool, the Marli, and strolling around the Drägerpark.

A good choice is a boat cruise on the waterways that encircle the Old Town (book throughBoat Now; €49 for an hour), or a spin on a rental bike, zipping along the canals and winding lanes lined with boutiques and eateries.

But at this time of year, you’re best to beeline for Breite Strasse, where the Lübeck Christmas market will run from November 24 until December 30 (closed December 24 and December 25).

Christmas markets have a long tradition in this part of Germany, and you can expect all manner of festive magic, from roasted almonds and deep-fried pastries to mulled wine and artisan ceramics.

For art lovers, there’s awalk and sketch touraccompanied by German artist Suzanna Adler, and for history buffs, there’s thethe Classical City tourwhich takes in all of the key sites.

Where to stay

Lübeck has plenty of decent hotels, most within walking distance of the magical Old Town.

For something cheap, cheerful and perfectly comfortable, theHoliday Inn – the niu, Rig Lübeckhas double rooms from £56, staying on Friday, November 7.

ThePremier Inn City Centrehas doubles from £68 for the same night, and the highly-ratedLIHO – einfach Lübeckis a little dearer at £89.